“Porto is the biggest village in the world” – I vociferated hundreds of times not so long ago, with an almost unshakeable certainty.
Every time I return to Porto from a longer than a couple of days stay, I feel a tug of longing and, at the same time, an undeniable relief in my heart. It’s as if “Porto Sentido”* – Heartfelt Porto (a song by Porto’s singer Rui Veloso) was the soundtrack of my soul. “é muita emoçom cara%o!”* – It’s so fucking emotional! Yes, I use vernacular as punctuation as is usual in the Portugal’s northern pronunciation – “Pronúncia do Norte“** (a song by Porto’s band GNR), because it runs in my veins, and if fools call it clumsy – “os tolos chamam-lhe torpe“**, for me it’s a symbol of pride, indeed!
My connection with Porto goes beyond administrative borders. My family has deep roots here, and even though I grew up in Maia (city north of Porto), it was always in the “Invicta” (as is called Porto, meaning Undefeated) that I found my identity. However, today Porto is no longer the same. Gentrification is pushing the locals to the suburbs, and the city we once knew is turning into a caricature of itself. The streets, which used to overflow with authenticity, now, though crowded with people, feel soulless, filled with tourists who, unknowingly, are pushing away what they came here to find. Soon, only the francesinhas and the granite will remain, while the local people dissolve into memories.
Porto, when the trend passes, I will see it again, “Assim abandonado, Nesse timbre pardacento, Nesse seu jeito fechado, De quem mói um sentimento” – Abandoned like this, In that muted tone, With that closed-off way, Of someone grinding a feeling*. (from “Porto Sentido” lyrics)
Looking beyond Porto, it was in Minho and in the northern and central interior regions of Portugal that I felt a similar connection. Every time I return from there, I feel the urge to go back. The warmth of the people, the beauty of the landscapes, and the authenticity at the table are a balm for the soul.
With this mindset, I accepted the invitation from Sonaudio’s José Manuel Figueiredo, a passionate high-fidelity enthusiast from the Dão-Lafões region, to the audio event he organized last Saturday in Carregal do Sal. My faithful Mazda sacrificed itself once again, once capable of climbing the Marão (a steep mountain range in northern Portugal) in sixth gear, but now dragging along with sudden mechanical and electronic ailments. Slowly climbing from Albergaria to Talhadas, eager to leave behind the burned, gray scenery from the previous week’s fires, the car and I pushed hard to leave the infernal scene behind.
The event took place at NACO – Oliveirinha Youth Cultural Center. It may not be the typical setting for high-performance audio demonstrations, but José Manuel’s enthusiasm, measurements, and dedication, along with his friends, made up for everything. There, far from the portuguese capitals, were five high-quality audio systems, accompanied by the elegant wines of Dão-Lafões, creating an atmosphere filled with passion and commitment from all involved.
I remember the Axxess and Børresen presentation event in Viseu (city in Portugal’s interior) months earlier. The same passion for the best auditory experiences prevailed. Here’s a heads-up to those in this sector: high-fidelity is very strong outside the big cities. And once again, I’m the only one reporting on these transaxle events. Maybe that’s why they call me a parachutist – for exploring territories where no one else ventures.
In the main auditorium at NACO, the “sexiest” system reigned: Wilson Audio Sabrina X speakers, Dan D’Agostino Progression amplification, and dCS Bartok streamer/DAC, with PS Audio DirectStream P5 power regenerator. But the magic was spread across all rooms. IN the larger room, three systems; the first: the national debut of Monitor Audio Gold 500 (6th Gen) and Monitor Audio Studio 89 with Rel T9x Subwoofer, Roksan Atessa amplification and Advance Paris Classic A12, Roksan Atessa CD transport, and Eversolo A8 streamer. The second, ProAC K1 and Sonus Faber Soneto III (2nd Gen) floor-standing speakers with PrimaLuna Evo 400 tube amplification and PrimaLuna Evo 100 DAC for Eversolo A8 conversion, and a system that impressed with its competence: mid-century design Vestlyd 12C coaxial speakers and dual-mono EAM Lab Classic 102i amplification powered by Heed audio Thesis Delta CD player.
A tiny room, however, stole the show with a Closer Ogy + Ogy Bass combo and hybrid amplification from AuroraSound HFSA-1, ProJect X8 turntable with Ortofon Blue MC cartridge, and AuroraSound Vida phono stage with external power supply. The CD player and converter was the Norma DS2, and the power conditioner was the Keces IQRP-1500, same as the Vestlyd + EAM Labs system. There, in a small space, it was proven that good sound can fit into any space, as long as the right system is chosen.
This event was much more than a mere technical demonstration. The real highlight was the spirit of the people. On the way back to Porto, my heart was full. Full from soul of the people from the depths of Portugal, from the landscapes, the quality of life there, waiting for those who wish to embrace it.
Who knows, maybe one day…
* taken from “Porto Sentido,” Album: “O Concerto Acústico” by Rui Veloso; composed by Rui Veloso and Carlos Tê.
** taken from “A Pronúncia do Norte,” Album: “Rock in Rio Douro” by GNR; composed by Rui Reininho and Jorge Romão.
Event organized by Sonaudio